Labels:text | letter | paper | black and white | document OCR: What equipment do you need to brew 7 Our standard beer equipment kit contains: a 6.7 gallon becket, with Ild, as a primary fermenter and bottling tank. This is where the beer starts out the fermentation process, and also where it ends up after fermentation is complete. First you boil it, cool it, adjust it to 5 gallons, and add the yeast. Then it has to start out in a container which is big enough to give the yeast some foaming room. A lid is included, which Should be out or Icosely, not sealed shut unless it is drilled out and fitted with a fermentation lock. We furnish a GLASS secondary fermenter, with a fermentation lock and stopper. After the beer finishes the fosmy primary stage of fermentation, and before top mich of the yeast settles out, the beer is noved into the secondary ard put under a fermentation lock to allow gas to escape, but keep all air out. You move the beer with the syphon apparatus, consisting of a curved racking tube with downflow tip, 5 feet of 3/8 inch tose and a shut-off clamp. A double-lever crown capper is includec, and a full pound of caps, enough for about three batches of beer. Our bottle brush, with the tufted tia, cleans stubborn deposits out of the bottoms of bottles. Four HOME BREW CAN ounces of Sodium Netabisulfite rakes I gallon of stock sterilizing solution. BE MADE WITH Our complete instruction book includes recipes. VERY SIMPLE EQUIPMENT Some brewers prefer to do all their brewing in glass, splitting the 5 gallon batch between two 5 gallon carboys during the foaming stage, and then combining the batches to top up a single carboy during the secondary phase. Some brewers use 7 gallon acid jugs, which are large enough to use as single stage fermenters all by themselves. This is all the equipment you need EXCEPT For the boiling kettle, ard bottles or kegs. Most people have a big blue canner, or a large stock-pot, preferably stainless or enamelled steel. Some Aluminum is D.K ., but some is not. Beer is acidic, and can react with alun'nun. A WORD ABOUT SANITATION: When you're making beer, you're growing a live garden of yeast, and yeast is mat the only thing which can grow In beer. Nothing dangerous can grow in beer, but some bad-tasting stuff can, so keep your beer and brewirg equipment as clean as possible. just : little cleaner than things you're going to cook in. Cleaning is the first stage, sanitation is the second. Since all beer residues are acidic, use an alkaline cleaner, sach as soda ash (washing soda - ren perfured!), TSP, or dishwashing detergent. Then, after it's clean, sanitize it with your Metabisulfite solution (a food-grade sanitizer), or a chlorine sanitizer. Beer fermentation is actually ore continuous process, but there are stages to the process which lock different. The first stage is che yeast colony establishing itself, beginning to grow and reproduce, and building up the typical beer "head", or "Kreusen". During this process, the yeast needs some oxygen. Ory yeasts are grown so as to carry the needed oxygen with then. Net yeasts may need additional air. Then the process quiets down, "goes anaerobic", or into the secondary stage. The yeast no longer needs air, in fact, It will work better without air, so we put it into a closed container, and seal it with a fermentation lock. This lets the gas of fermentation escape, without letting any air in. Of course, this also protects the beer from any airbourne bacteria, and from oxidation after the fermentation stops. How do you know it's finished ? You watch it, and see wher the bubbles stop. In a glass carboy, topped up into the neck, all the bubbles have to pass through the neck on their way to the fermentation lock, so you can easily ser then. If you have a Hydrometer, you can test the specific gravity of the beer. If you have a dextrocheck kit, you car test for residual suger. If you have left the beer or a good, healthy bed of yeast for a week or so, it is almost certainly finished, down to less than 1% sugar, and ready to bottle. If fermentation just stopped, the brew is still slightly cloudy from the little bit of yeast which has not settled nut. All you need to do is add a small amount of corn sugar --- 6 ounces, or 3/4 cup is about right for a 5 gallon batch -- nix the sugar in really thoroughly, so each bottle cets the same amount of Sugar, and bottle in squeaky- clean bottles. If you have "lagered" your beer, that is. stored it cold for a period of weeks of months, the yeast is dead, ard you will need to add a fresh yeast culture to make the bubbles. After your beer is safely bottled, let it relax for a while, at room temperature, while the yeast turns the sugar into bubbles. It may actually be carbonated by the next day, but it will take at least a week for it to clear, and even longer for the yeast to settle out completely and form a crust at the bottom of the bottle. Some beers, such as the lighter ales, are best while young and fresh. Others, usually the really heavy dark lagers and stouts, seem to get smoother and richer with age. Some are best cold, some not so cold. Let your own taste be your guide. Enjoy!
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